Discover The Black Truffles of Provence at Aups Market
November to March in Provence is officially Truffle Season.
Truffle lovers, chefs and restauranteurs keenly anticipate a trip to the picturesque village of Aups at this time of year as it’s arguably THE place to find the most beautiful and flavoursome black truffles in the region. Highly prized black truffles, hunted locally by rabassiers and their trained truffle hounds, are eagerly sought by those who love the deep musky aroma of this gourmet foodie delicacy.
Located in the Var department of Provence in the foothills of the French Alps, Aups is a village characterised by narrow medieval streets and historic fountains. Originally Aups was built as a ramparted village, which is still evident in the city gate and high stone walls of the old quarter. But most importantly for the truffle industry here, Aups is located in a vast and densely wooded forest with an abundance of oak trees - and it’s specifically the soil around these oaks trees that the black truffle thrives in.
Black truffles - officially known as “Tuber Melanosporum” - are actually mushroom-like fungi which grow underground, among the shallow roots of oak trees. The rough black/brown outer layer of a truffle conceals a beautiful smooth black & white marbled flesh, and amazingly its distinctive perfume is said to be made up of over 70 aromatic components. Black truffles, referred to locally as ‘rabasse’ or ‘diamants noirs’ (black diamonds), prefer an altitude of around 500m, a generally hot and dry climate, spring rainfalls and a shallow limestone soil. Unsurprisingly, Aups fits the bill perfectly on all of these requirements, and therefore has the honourable distinction of being the ‘truffle capital’ of the Var.
In days of old the most effective truffle hunter was a pig - they apparently have extremely sensitive noses for truffles. But nowadays easier-to-train dogs are much more widely used to sniff out the uniquely scented delicacies. A good truffle dog is worth his or her weight in truffles! The price of black truffles varies between 50€ - 100€ per 100g. Larger truffles can weigh from 100 grammes upwards, occasionally even as much as a kilogram, reaching seven centimetres or more in diameter.
So where can you buy these amazing delicacies? Well, throughout the year the regular village market days in Aups are Wednesday and Saturday mornings. Here you can buy truffle infused cooking oils and cheeses and the suchlike. But actual whole truffles are hard to come by. However, during the black truffle season, from late November to early March, a specialist truffle market is held every Thursday morning in the square in front of the Town Hall. Tables, weighing scales and truffle-laden baskets emerge from the boots of hunters cars in the early hours. The baskets are carefully covered with tea towels to prevent the truffles from drying out and loosing weight (less weight equals a lower worth). Last week I had the pleasure of visiting the first Truffle market of the season, and took a few snaps for you….
Another option for truffle buying is the Fete de la Truffe Noire d’Aups – Held on the fourth Sunday in January every year. This is a whole festival celebrating the black truffle! The musty aroma of black truffles fills the air and on offer are all things black-truffle-related, along with other associated Provencal culinary delights such as olive oils, cheeses, cured meats and freshly baked artisan breads. Also featured is a truffle hunting demonstration, a truffle dog competition, truffle themed talks, book signings, truffle art exhibitions, and truffle-based menus at all of the village’s restaurants. I love to order scrambled eggs with truffle shavings on top. But be warned, it’s absolutely worth booking in advance at any of the restaurants as competition for tables is fierce! You could also try the restaurant Chez Bruno in Lorgues, a 20km trip from Aups. The restaurant has a coveted Michelin star and is known as THE truffle restaurant of Southern France. I’m yet to experience Chez Bruno but it’s top of my restaurant bucket list.
Looking for more truffle inspiration?
It’s worth noting that the wonderful nearby rosé vineyard ‘Château de Berne’ in Lorgues also organises an annual truffle festival in mid-February.
You might also want to make time to visit the Maison de la truffe in Place Martin Bidouré in the centre of Aups. Dedicated to all things truffle, this space includes a shop, museum and discovery area.
However you enjoy your truffles, Bon Appetit!
